Visiting the former murder capital of the world should be on your wish list

El Carmen Church in Santa Ana, El Salvador. Photo / Getty Images
Breathtaking volcanoes, world-class surf beaches, and the warmest locals you’ll ever meet are why El Salvador is one of Central America’s best-kept travel secrets, writes Ash Jurberg
Four years ago, if you’d told me I’d be recommending a trip to the former “Murder Capital of the World” I’d have thought you were joking. But here I am, fresh from an adventure that shattered every preconception I held about this misunderstood country.
During the long, isolated months of Covid-19, I first connected with Joe, a writer living worlds away in El Salvador. Little did I know that this virtual connection would eventually lead me to a place I had only read about in alarming headlines over the years.
After four years of using WhatsApp and Facebook messaging, Joe emailed me, suggesting we meet in person in his home country. “El Salvador has been radically transformed,” he wrote. “It’s now the safest country in Central America.” My finger paused over the reply button. With a deep breath, I began typing. “I’m in. Let’s do this … ” And just like that, I committed to an adventure.
READ MORE: 5 of the best countries to visit before the year ends
Arriving in a country is usually a mix of excitement, jetlag, and frustration. Many countries seem to revel in the latter – I should know; I’ve been to 109 of them. Weary travellers are often met with long immigration queues, customs agents who put the terror in interrogation, and lots of red tape. However, the arrival process into El Salvador was the smoothest I’ve ever experienced. There were no queues, and the customs agents smiled as I approached.
The agent processing my entry into the country said, “Welcome to El Salvador,” with such friendliness I almost expected her to hug me. Instead of asking me hundreds of questions, she seemed excited that I was visiting and wished me a pleasant trip. This warmth and optimism were palpable throughout my time in the country. Every local I met was not just welcoming but genuinely glad that I wanted to explore their country. There was a sense of hope and excitement about the recent transformation and the potential for increased tourism.
El Salvador is the smallest country in Central America, making it easy to visit many top sights from its centrally located capital, San Salvador. I had a busy schedule and began exploring the historic centre, home to beautifully restored buildings such as the National Palace and the Metropolitan Cathedral, which capture the spirit of the capital’s colonial architecture.
Even the Starbucks, nestled within the National Theatre, is a place of beauty, more reminiscent of a museum than a chain cafe. But to truly experience the city’s renaissance, the trendy Zona Rosa district is the place to be. It’s home to hip cafes, art galleries, and boutique shops that showcase the creative energy of El Salvador’s youth.
Pupusas, a taste of Salvadoran culture
One of the highlights of my trip was trying pupusas, El Salvador’s national dish. “Nothing that fancy, and at the same time, the indisputable pinnacle of Salvadoran cuisine,” Joe explained as we devoured these delicious stuffed rice tortillas at a local pupuseria.
These simple yet satisfying corn or rice dough discs are filled with various ingredients, cooked on a griddle, and served with cabbage slaw and tomato sauce. My favourite was the revuelta, stuffed with beans, cheese, and chicharron (pork). The crispy exterior gives way to a gooey, flavourful centre. A hearty meal of three pupusas will set you back less than NZ$10 and fuel you up for exploration. The unique combination of ingredients and the skilful preparation make pupusas a must-try dish in El Salvador.
Natural wonders and breathtaking views
El Salvador offers diverse highlights bound to satisfy any nature enthusiast. I took a short walk up San Salvador volcano, just 20 minutes from the capital. Here, I saw my first example of the country preparing to welcome tourists, with new paths being developed, an expanded visitors’ centre, and plans for a bird sanctuary and adrenaline activities.
At the peak, I breathed in the crisp air on the volcano’s rim as I listened to my guide, Omar, serenade me with El Carbonero, a folk song about a coal merchant considered El Salvador’s second national anthem. His soft voice provided the perfect soundtrack to the magnificent views. Omar used the song to illustrate the nation’s proud history and resilience.
For an even more spectacular experience, I recommend hiking the Santa Ana Volcano. The 90-minute trek to the top is rewarded with breathtaking views over a bright green crater lake. In any other location, the peak would be swarming with influencers attempting to catch the perfect Instagram shot. Yet, once again, we had the place to ourselves. And no filters were needed to enhance our view.
Santa Ana is less than 40km from Lake Coatepeque. This stunning body of water can change from deep blue to glowing turquoise, a phenomenon that had it in the running to be selected as the eighth natural wonder of the world. The surrounding landscape, with its lush greenery and the majestic San Vicente volcano in the distance, adds to the beauty of the lake. I spent the night in a villa overlooking the lake, and the following day, I had to pinch myself as I drank fresh Salvadoran coffee while watching the sunrise.
Surf’s up
To end my week, I headed to the postcard-worthy surf beaches of El Tunco on the Pacific Coast. This laid-back town, known as Surf City, has the vibes and feel of beach towns in Southeast Asia, again without the crowds I always encountered. El Tunco is a surfer’s paradise, with consistent waves suitable for beginners and experts alike.
Even if you’re not into surfing, the beach’s black sand and stunning sunsets make it the perfect place to unwind and reflect on your Salvadoran adventure. For the more active, there are nearby waterfalls and sea caves to explore.
Sitting at a beachside bar as the sun goes down and drinking a cold cerveza was a reward for my hikes earlier in the week.
Over the week, every misconception I had about El Salvador was shattered. I found a nation brimming with natural splendour, a rich cultural tapestry, and an indomitable spirit. Interacting with friendly locals further reinforced how misleading the country’s reputation was. I never felt unsafe and would be hard-pressed to name a friendlier country of the many I have visited.
El Salvador is on the cusp of a tourism boom. Now is the time to visit – before the crowds discover this Central American gem. You’ll experience its raw beauty and rich culture and be part of its inspiring journey of transformation.
And who knows? You might even share a pupusa with Joe or be serenaded by Omar. I’m sure they will be happy to indulge you.
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to El Salvador International Airport (SAL) with one stopover in the US with Air NZ and United. The airport is about 50km from San Salvador.
DETAILS
elsalvador.travel